Paris Fashion Week 2016 Overview

The last destination of Fashion Week was Paris. Paris was also full of surprises, Maria Grazia Chiuri was announced to be the first woman to take the post of the creative director of Dior, and Kim Kardashian was robbed at a gunpoint in her hotel in Paris. Let us, first of all, explore Balenciaga, Balmain, Chanel, Christian Dior, Valentino, Saint Laurent, and see how they were experimenting on their collections.

Balenciaga

Certainly, most of the Balenciaga’s collection is very difficult to attribute to the category of practical clothing. At first glance, the collection itself seems very strange, but throughout the show, Demna Gvasalia smoothly goes from oversized clothes into the tight overalls, spandex, and latent leather. He adhered to a large bags, some of which can be difficult to be used often. Shoes are a separate symphony, as you see square-toed shoes are back in vogue, many famous brands had already had this shoes in their collections. For example, Yves Saint Laurent, Emilio Pucci, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, and many others.

dvsdvc dvszxcv©Photo: Monica Feudi
marcus©Photo: Marcus Tondo
vsvcv vsvs©Photo: Monica Feudi

Balmain

“The Balmain Army has shed its armor,” said the creative director Olivier Rousteing to Vogue. “Whatever I do, even if I cover up my girls, people can say it’s vulgar. But this is what it is. I think it’s really chic, really French. It’s Paris how I see it.” The collection itself is full of colors and details here play a significant role in creating a sense of upheaval (aesthetic satisfaction is also excluded). Probably the main theme was “the jungle”, otherwise how can one explain tobacco, emerald green colors combined with suede and nappa leather. One thing we know for sure, there is a lot of work done (since Balmain expanded its’ looks quantity from 60 to 80 original looks), so, the brand is progressing with each collection.

afcadc ascad dsgvd dsvsz©Photo: Monica Feudimarcustondo©Photo: Marcus Tondo
wevsdv©Photo: Monica Feudi

Chanel

“This is technology. But with the lingerie, it’s intimate technology!”-this is how Karl Lagerfeld described Chanel’s spring collection to Vogue. Possibly, the theme of technology can be explained as a kind of a justification for the fact that he tries to keep the punch line of the brand while at the same time integrating novelty into his collections. That is the classic Chanel remains steadfast, with cotton material and its geometry (checked), but with a slight twist in colors, hats (caps), the geometry of some clothes is transformed into more modern lines. Finally, an evening dress is no longer a Little-Black dress.

dvsdv egedfg frsdgv©Photo: Yannis Vlamosmarcus©Photo: Marcus Tondo
sxvsfv©Photo: Yannis Vlamos

Photo: Kevin Tachman

Photo: Kevin Tachman

Christian Dior

“The message, really, is that there is not one kind of woman,” said Maria Grazia Chiuri, the first female creative director in the history of the brand. “I wanted to overcome the traditional man/woman, tailored/casual, reason/emotion, stereotypes. And I precisely thought of a wardrobe, which is not just feminine, but feminist, where the distinctions between mind and heart no longer exist and thinking merges with action.” One of the main elements of the collection was mini bustier. Black and white were in dominance, the brand name on shoes and clothes, long lace dresses that reminded of Valentino, masculine trousers, and T-shirts saying “We should all be feminists” created the whole look of the collection. Though the collection was successful, there is still a lack of male’s perspective of perceiving femininity.

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Valentino

After ‘divorcing’ from Maria Grazia Chiuri, Pierpaolo Piccioli debuts with his spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection on which he worked, obviously, alone. Hieronymus Bosch’s triptych, The Garden of Earthly Delights was one of the inspirations that influenced the course of collection. “This collection is a journey through time”, says Piccioli to Vogue Italia after the show, “The beginning of a new era where the values are evolving and the past is set aside to write the future.” One of the elements that remind of the ‘old’ Valentino are sandals, long dresses, georgette, leather, and chiffon.

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rsgvdfg©Photo: Marcus Tondo
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Saint Laurent

“She’s certainly not bourgeois or classic,” said Anthony Vaccarello about a ‘Saint Laurent Girl.’ “She has a huge respect for Saint Laurent, but not in the first degree. So I thought of her taking a vintage dress and cutting into it.” Gold lame, chiffon, asymmetric clothes, and miniskirts are what Saint Laurent was all about.

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Louis Vuitton

“I realize that I didn’t explore the sophistication and the more dressed-up part of Louis Vuitton that much yet,” said creative director Nicolas Ghesquière to Vogue. A lot of experimenting is involved in this collection including tracing new and fresh looks instead of standard ones, the director is trying to change the look of the sleeve, neckline or material combination.

advsx©Photo: Marcus Tondodsvasdvdvsvxfvzsdcvfvzsv©Photo: KimWeston Arnold

 

Tatevik Avetisyan

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